Posted on Sep 02, 2008

Kenzo how do I love thee, let me count the ways…but I’m obviously getting a little ahead of myself– the days were just packed as MasterCard Luxury Week Hong Kong 2008 rose to a close.

Donna Karan’s fanciful Autumn/Winter 2008/2009 boudoir bathrobes – or at least they seemed that way - opened the weekend fashion walkathon in long and light wispy chiffon and silk concoctions that while expertly draped, required one be devoid of all lingerie to be able to wear successfully. In fact it all resembled more a collection of round midnight seduction pieces - bits floating here and there with a touch of that elongated ’20s flapper dropped waist silhouette – than anything particularly directional or wearable.

At Oscar de la Renta later in the evening, I was thrilled to hear the inimitable Regina Spektor on the awesome track “Us”, which she sang live when de la Renta first presented the collection in February this year.

It’s a soaring vocal backdrop that demanded a parade of the Dominican designer’s show stopper gowns, instead the luxe, elegant collection was heavy on ’50s-styled frocks, knits, coats and jackets over puff skirts and wide legged pants. Think winter separates for posh ladies arriving at festive parties in genteel, wood-fired locales, with lots of well dressed others.

The parade of jewel tones with divine detailing included a black skirt adorned with overlapping pieces of shiny black plastic, a brilliant peacock blue dress with green leaves climbing along the hem and neat pleats, bows and subtly shining sequins everywhere.

But I wanted sigh worthy gowns as Ms Spektor’s voice filled the space, and I was finally rewarded, starting with a tulle skirted black confection, moving forwards to a modern strapless floral and finishing with a stunning cobalt blue taffeta floor sweeper, that deservedly, was applauded.

And then came Kenzo. This was art, plain and simple. From the fall of fabrics to intuitively paired colours and textures, to the sheer presence of each piece. Antonio Marras (Kenzo no longer designs the collection personally) has perfected the Kenzo DNA, and raised it, resulting in distinctive, sculptural pieces.

While the day time knits shown were wearable to a T, it was in the more dramatic coats, embroidered jackets, and dresses that Marras’ mastery over tailoring and shape was felt: puffy over slim, texture meeting colours, tucks and pleats on shoulders and backs, arching kimono collars, neat origami folds. 

Simply a surreal, joyous, calm spectacle that left the room speechless, as the final piece paused under a hail of filmed flower petals. I was awed.

Later at Vera Wang, I was struck by how well the designer does that uptown-downtown thing without ever hitting high street common: elegance without being fussy, glamour without being overtly dramatic, and show stopping without announcing.

In a collection of separates and dresses that focussed on fabulous pairings and modern fabrics: a techno brocade top over a pompadour dress over hammered satin leggings; a silk gauze tank dress over a hammered gold tank dress, Wang’s clothes are subtlety secretive, revealing layers and details as you take each one in. In short: enthralling, contemporary statement dressing for women with great personal style.

Anita Kapoor,
Your MasterCard Fashion Insider Journalist

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